Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Necklace – Spring/Summer 1991 One-Off Museum-Quality Piece

An exceptionally rare, one-off piece created for the iconic S/S 1991 Rive Gauche runway show and campaign, this necklace weighs 1 pound 8 ounces (688 grams), putting it among the heaviest ever produced by Rive Gauche, and was likely crafted by Robert Goossens, who added the signature Maltese crosses, in a collaborative design influenced by Loulou de la Falaise, two pivotal figures in YSL’s creative circle.

Designed as a cascading three strand necklace with two jewelled lengths (28cm & 35cm from below the Maltese crosses) falling down each side, all hanging on a coated twisted wire for durability and support.  It features two Maltese crosses, which sit at the clavicles, and each centred with a square chamfered lapis lazuli stone (likely simulated, in deep blue), surrounded by four faceted luminous stones in vibrant blue, turquoise, teal and green, their tiny facets coming to a soft point with a frosted, matte surface, creating a soft, luminous glow, set into a closed backing, with four cobalt blue frosted teardrop beads positioned at angles in between.  Elsewhere, the design includes back-to-back customised domed faceted stones (or possibly single double-sided pieces), set in thin 4mm bezel bands with foil backs to enhance their luminosity, alongside hand molded larger teardrop glass stones, translucent with a frosted, matte surface and luminous finish (possibly by Gripoix Paris or a Murano glassmaker), glossy millefiori glass beads (potentially sourced from Murano, Italy, each bead hand formed with varying shapes for a bespoke design), glazed ceramic painted beads, and unglazed ceramic painted beads, all contributing to YSL’s bohemian opulence.  At the bottom of one side length, a double-sided, smooth, bulbous teardrop lapis lazuli bead (likely simulated) is bezel-set, while the other side length features a double-sided, frosted, luminous cobalt teardrop glass bead, also bulbous and bezel-set, each with additional double-sided faceted luminous stones above them in turquoise and vibrant blue, adding an asymmetrical appeal.  The piece is accented with thin Etruscan discs and very thin 4mm bezel settings, formed around both teardrop and round faceted glass beads, in 22ct gold-plated metal, enhancing its luxurious appearance.

Three of the teardrop cobalt blue frosted beads on the Maltese crosses have an internal crack (likely from pressure against other beads), but they are secure and not broken, and the rest of the necklace is in pristine condition.  The piece is finished with an S-hook closure and an iconic Rive Gauche hangtag featuring a quatrefoil/Alhambra motif, a signature of the brand’s 1990s aesthetic.

Runway photos by Guy Marineau from the S/S 1991 Rive Gauche show reveal four variations of this necklace design, each in distinct colourways: a red/brown version (worn by Carmen Schwarz), a red-orange-yellow-brown version (worn by Eleonore Klarwein), a aqua-yellow-pink-green version (worn by Yasmeen Ghauri), and a blue-purple version (worn by Amalia Vairelli, the closest to this piece). This necklace, a one-off with no identical examples documented or available for sale, brings the total to five variations, each in different colourways and with subtle changes in their bead arrangements, reinforcing the individuality of each necklace, likely created for the runway show and campaign. Magazine adverts from the same season, shot by Arthur Elgort, feature Yasmin Le Bon wearing the blue-purple version (which appears to match Amalia Vairelli’s runway variation), highlighting the design’s prominence in the S/S 1991 campaign.  The five variations, possibly part of a small batch for the runway and campaign, underscore the piece’s rarity, with some potentially gifted to YSL insiders, further limiting their circulation.

The S/S 1991 Rive Gauche show was a vibrant, experimental celebration of bohemian luxury, pushing boundaries with its jewel-toned palette and eclectic designs, contrasting with the minimalist trends of the era and reinforcing Rive Gauche’s role as a creative laboratory for Saint Laurent’s vision.  Created during a period when Yves Saint Laurent faced health challenges, which limited his direct involvement, this piece was likely crafted by Robert Goossens, who contributed the Maltese cross design and craftsmanship, in a collaborative design influenced by Loulou de la Falaise, whose bohemian aesthetic shaped YSL’s accessories during this period, all under Saint Laurent’s creative direction.  Given its exceptional weight, the high cost of materials, and the labor-intensive production, this necklace was unlikely sold in Rive Gauche stores, where more practical and accessible variations were offered, but rather created as a statement piece for the runway, campaign, or as a showpiece, possibly gifted or archived by YSL.  This piece is a testament to the thrill of uncovering fashion history, now offered to a discerning collector through brambleandlily.com. With its museum-quality craftsmanship and historical significance, this necklace offers the rare opportunity to own a one-off piece of YSL history.  Signed ‘Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Made in France.’ Condition: Excellent overall, with bright gold elements and minor internal cracks in three beads within the Maltese crosses, consistent with its age and use within the YSL creative circle.