Theodor Fahrner Art Deco 925 Vermeil Silver Filigree Necklace

Theodor Fahrner Art Deco 925 Vermeil Silver Filigree Necklace featuring 5 main motifs each comprising highly detailed coiled filigree patterning linked by chunky soldered silver links. There are a further seven smaller motifs on each side of the necklace and these motifs are joined by finer etched silver links. The necklace has a spring ring clasp and it is signed on the reverse of the centre motif 'TF 925' stamped into a panel above 'ORIGINAL FAHRNER' stamped into a rectangular panel with chamfered corners. The necklace measures 43.5cm long and the five main motifs each measure 1.3cm high and 2.1cm wide.

Founded in Pforzheim, Germany, in 1855 by Georg Seeger and Theodor Fahrner, Sr. (1823 – 1883), the Fahrner Company became one of the most successful European jewellery manufacturers of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Theodor, Sr., manufactured and sold rings that memorialised historical events. Theodor Fahrner, Jr., (1859 – 1919) trained as a metal engraver at the Pforzheim Art Academy where he honed his natural artistic talent and developed a lifelong love of art. When his father died in 1883, Theodor took control of the company and expanded its production beyond rings to necklaces, bracelets, brooches and earrings.

Theodor was known for Art Nouveau and Jugendstil (a German style influenced by English Art Nouveau, Japanese prints and Viennese abstracts) designs. He pioneered the use of eminent artists to design jewellery made partly or entirely by machine. Designers included Joseph Maria Olbrich, Max J. Gradl and Patriz Huber, who were architects and interior designers. The painters in the team included Julius Müller-Salem, Bert Joho and Ferdinand Morawe as well as two sculptors, Ludwig Habich and Franz Boeres.

Each of these designers had their own distinctive style and they helped the company gain eminence for its Art Nouveau, Arts and Crafts and Celtic Revival jewellery. A year after winning a silver medal at the Paris World’s Fair in 1900, the company registered the “TF” trademark, which enabled them to export jewellery to Great Britain. After Theodor Jr.'s death in 1919 the company was then sold to Gustav Braendle and renamed Gustav Braendle, Theodor Fahrner Nachfolger (German for “successors”).

Under Gustav Braendle’s leadership, the firm received acclaim for its striking Art Deco designs in silver or vermeil silver with matte enamel and marcasites, combined with semi-precious stones such as coral, onyx and green agate. In 1932, filigree was added to the inventory, when the silver was soldered with corded wire. However, the war greatly affected its production and in 1940 the factory was destroyed by a bomb. German politics during the 30s and World War II restricted the company’s design freedom and subsequently its production output. After the war, production resumed and designs increased, but the company never regained its pre-war prominence. In the 1950s, a large variety of designs was produced. When Gustav Braendle died in 1952, his son Herbert took over. The Company was liquidated in 1979 after his death.