Rare Fulham Road Billboard Sphinx for Butler & Wilson Dual Branded Byzantine Coin Necklace – Rough Diamonds Marpessa Hennink Variant (1980's)

A rare gem from Butler & Wilson’s Fulham Road Billboard Campaign (1982-1990), as documented in the wonderful book Rough Diamonds (1990) by Vivienne Becker.  This beautiful piece stands as a coveted variant debuted by Marpessa Hennink’s billboard feature (page 165), photographed by Marco Sachi, part of the 1980s showcase including Shakira Caine, Little Richard, Marie Helvin, Ali MacGraw, Mimi, French & Saunders amongst others and a multitude of highly revered photographers.  Displayed prominently outside Butler & Wilson’s Fulham Road shop in the heart of bustling Chelsea, a vibrant 1980s hub for fashion and culture, the billboard drew crowds of locals, tourists, and style enthusiasts, its iconic photographs becoming a celebrated fixture over the 8 year campaign.  The first billboard featured Catherine Deneuve in 1982 (Butler & Wilson supplied jewellery for her in the film 'The Hunger'), and she was succeeded by Charlotte Rampling and Faye Dunaway, paving the way for an all-star campaign that showcased Butler & Wilson’s bold vision.  Crafted in the mid to slightly later 1980's, and possibly part of Butler & Wilson’s rare ‘coin jewels’ series, paying homage to Renaissance medallists and continuing the ‘parade of pageantry’ from 1984 medals, this 269g masterpiece offers a timeless connection to London’s jewellery heritage.  Retailed at elite stores like Harrods or Butler & Wilson’s Fulham Road shop (opened 1972), it captures 1980s opulence and boasts excellent condition, standing as a variant within the series, featuring unique detailing that sets it apart.

Rare and highly collectible and measuring 95cm (no clasp) and weighing an impressive 269g, it blends opulence with Baroque Byzantine elements comprising a Greek folded chain with fully soldered gold plated links, Latin faux heraldic coins, and open work white faux pearl frame accents.  Its seamless gold plated Greek folded chain, shifting from single to two strands, slips on effortlessly, with open work framed faux white pearl components adding wonderful statement detailing, all signed “Sphinx” with code ‘E2721’.  The chain flows into three strands of faux champagne pearls adorned with nine beautiful, richly gold plated coins.  Six of these coins are fully round, featuring the Latin wording “Magistrat et Communit Beln” and “Ioannes Berardier Major Belnin,” with an image of the Madonna and Child holding a flower.  These six coins alternate with three coins exhibiting an ancient aesthetic, achieving a worn look, with the wording “Butler . Wilson” embossed on both sides.  The central coin of the three is larger, cast with a shield on one side and a cross inside a quatrefoil on the other; all three also feature champagne faux pearl droppers.  A further ancient-look coin sits above the three strands of faux champagne pearls along the chain on the left, enhancing its beautiful asymmetrical appeal.

The faux champagne pearl frames, signed “Sphinx” with code ‘E2721’, feature a crisscrossed pad in line with a raised rectangle, ingenious details that allowed a simple clip to transform these components into matching earrings, minimising production costs.  Such resourceful design reflects the practical ingenuity of a flourishing business in its mid-1980s prime.