Crown Trifari Swaying Seaweed Brooch and Clip On Earrings

Crown Trifari Swaying Seaweed Brooch and Earrings Set
This rare set features a gold-tone brooch and matching clip-on earrings in a "Swaying Seaweed" design. Both pieces are signed with the iconic crown above the "T." The brooch measures 7.5cm long and 7.2cm wide, weighing 39g, while the earrings measure 2.8cm by 2.5cm, weighing 17g. The brooch includes a rollover clasp. Similar designs were re-released in the 1970s.

The Legacy of Trifari
Trifari was founded in New York in the 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, a descendant of Neapolitan jewelers. In 1925, Gustavo partnered with Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, transitioning from hair accessories to affordable costume jewelry. Their brand, initially called Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel (T.K.F.), was later shortened to Trifari, reflecting its Italian heritage.

Trifari pieces are marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF," or "Trifari," depending on their era. The hiring of Alfred Philippe in 1930 as head designer marked a pivotal moment for Trifari. Philippe, with a background in fine jewelry, introduced superior craftsmanship and innovative designs, elevating Trifari’s reputation. His work included delicate settings, hand-set crystals, and sophisticated motifs inspired by nature.

Design Innovations and Hollywood Influence
During the 1930s, Trifari collaborated with Broadway and Hollywood, creating custom designs for actors. Philippe’s innovations included invisible stone settings, sterling silver, vermeil finishes, and faux materials like imitation moonstone and chalcedony. Notable creations include Trifari Crown brooches from the late 1930s, which became iconic for their colorful cabochons or monochromatic rhinestones. The crown became part of Trifari’s logo in 1937.

In 1953, the Coronation Gems collection celebrated Queen Elizabeth II’s ascension, showcasing Trifari's creativity and craftsmanship.

Adapting to Challenges
During WWII, metal rationing forced Trifari to use sterling silver, increasing prices but maintaining sales. Post-war, Trifari introduced "Trifanium," a rhodium-finished base metal marketed as revolutionary, successfully reintroducing affordable jewelry.

Mamie Eisenhower’s endorsement in 1953 further solidified Trifari’s prestige. Alfred Philippe designed a custom pearl choker, bracelet, and earrings ensemble for her inaugural ball. Replicas were made for the Smithsonian and Trifari archives, ensuring the set's legacy.

Legal Triumphs and Corporate Evolution
In 1955, Trifari won a landmark copyright case against Charel, setting a precedent for costume jewelry makers to use the © symbol. In the 1970s, Trifari updated its logo, removing the crown and adopting a modern typeface. By the 1990s, the logo transitioned to plain text with a trademark symbol. In 1994, Trifari joined the Monet Group, later acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.

Today, Trifari is celebrated for its timeless designs and superior craftsmanship, with rare sets like this brooch and earring ensemble highly sought after by collectors.