Crown Trifari Open Work Leaf Brooch

Crown Trifari Open Work Leaf Brooch
This gold-tone brooch features an openwork leaf design, measuring 4.2cm long and 4cm wide, and weighs 11.7g. It has a rollover clasp and is signed on the reverse with "Trifari ©" and a crown over the "T," a hallmark used between 1955 and 1969.

The Origins of Trifari
Founded in New York in the early 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, a descendant of Italian jewelers, Trifari initially focused on hair accessories. In 1925, Gustavo partnered with Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, recognizing costume jewelry’s potential. The brand, originally named Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel (T.K.F.), was later shortened to Trifari to evoke the romance of Italy.

Authentic Trifari pieces are marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF," or "Trifari," depending on their era. A major turning point came in 1930 with the hiring of French designer Alfred Philippe as head designer. Philippe, with a background in fine jewelry, elevated Trifari's craftsmanship and trained its artisans to meet high standards.

Designs and Innovations
Trifari’s delicate designs featured hand-set crystals, floral motifs, and marine life depictions, often mimicking fine jewelry. In the 1930s, Trifari collaborated with Broadway and Hollywood to create custom designs for actors, enhancing its reputation. Philippe’s invisible stone settings, sterling silver, and vermeil finishes set Trifari apart. Faux materials like paste gemstones, imitation moonstone, and pearls added to the allure.

Among Philippe’s contributions were the Crown brooches, introduced in the late 1930s. These pieces, featuring colorful cabochons or clear crystal rhinestones, became so iconic that a crown was added to Trifari’s logo in 1937. In 1953, Trifari released the Coronation Gems collection to honor Queen Elizabeth II’s ascension.

Challenges and Triumphs
During WWII, metal rationing forced Trifari to use sterling silver, increasing costs but maintaining sales. Post-war, Trifari introduced "Trifanium," a rhodium-finished base metal marketed as revolutionary, successfully transitioning back to affordable materials.

First Lady Mamie Eisenhower wore a custom Trifari pearl choker to her 1953 inaugural ball, designed by Philippe. The ensemble included a necklace, bracelet, and earrings. Pleased with the results, she commissioned additional pieces for her second inaugural ball in 1957.

Legal and Corporate Evolution
In 1955, Trifari won a copyright lawsuit against Charel, setting a precedent for costume jewelry makers to imprint designs with the © symbol. In the 1970s, Trifari removed the crown from its logo, adopting a new typeface with a copyright symbol. By the 1990s, the logo transitioned to plain text with a trademark symbol. In 1994, Trifari joined the Monet Group, later acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.

Today, Trifari jewelry remains highly collectible, celebrated for its elegance and craftsmanship.