Crown Trifari Brushed Gold Plated 1960's Scalloped Choker With Crown Trifari Hang Tag

Crown Trifari Brushed Gold Plated 1950's Scalloped Choker
This vintage choker features a scalloped design in smooth and brushed gold plate. Comprising diagonal sections with four scallops each, it fits seamlessly together. Measuring 34cm with a 5cm extender finished with a gold ball, the choker has a hook closure signed "Trifari" and includes the Trifari key hangtag. The reverse is smooth gold plate, and the piece weighs 47.4g.

The Trifari Story
Trifari was founded in the early 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, a descendant of Neapolitan jewelers. In 1925, he partnered with Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, shifting from hair accessories to affordable costume jewelry. Originally named Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel Jewelry (T.K.F.), the brand later shortened its name to Trifari, evoking Gustavo's Italian heritage.

Trifari jewelry is marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF," or "Trifari," depending on its era. A turning point came in 1930 when French designer Alfred Philippe was hired as head designer. Philippe brought expertise from fine jewelry to costume jewelry, elevating quality standards in materials and craftsmanship. Trifari’s designs, featuring delicate settings and hand-set crystals, often imitated the sophistication of fine jewelry. Popular motifs included floral designs and marine life.

Hollywood and Beyond
Trifari collaborated with Broadway and Hollywood to create custom pieces for actors, boosting its prestige. Alfred Philippe, the chief designer until 1968, introduced innovations such as invisible stone settings, sterling silver, vermeil finishes, and faux gemstones like imitation moonstone, chalcedony, and pearls. Trifari's Crown brooches, introduced in the late 1930s, remain iconic, with designs featuring colorful cabochons or monochromatic clear crystals.

World War II and the Post-War Era
During WWII, metal rationing forced Trifari to use sterling silver, tripling prices but not affecting sales. Post-war, the company introduced "Trifanium," a base metal with a rhodium finish, marketed as revolutionary. This strategy successfully reintroduced affordable metals. First Lady Mamie Eisenhower embraced Trifari, wearing a custom pearl choker by Philippe to her inaugural ball in 1953, solidifying the brand's status.

Legal Milestones and Evolution
In 1955, Trifari made history by winning a copyright case against Charel, setting a precedent for costume jewelry companies to imprint their designs with ©. In the 1970s, Trifari updated its logo, removing the crown and adopting a new typeface. In 1994, Trifari became part of the Monet Group, later acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.

Today, Trifari jewelry is celebrated for its timeless elegance and craftsmanship, with vintage pieces like this 1950s choker treasured by collectors.