Crown Trifari Openwork Stylised Leaf Brooch

Crown Trifari Openwork Stylised Leaf Brooch
This brooch features a matte gold-plated openwork leaf design with smooth gold accents. Measuring 3.7cm high and 4.3cm wide, it weighs 13.4g. It has a rollover clasp and is signed "TRIFARI©" with a crown above the "T," used between 1955 and 1969.

The Trifari Story
Founded in New York in the early 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, a descendant of Italian jewelers, Trifari began as a hair accessory business. In 1925, Gustavo partnered with Leo Krussman and Carl Fishel, transitioning to costume jewelry to meet the growing demand for affordable, everyday pieces. Originally named Trifari, Krussman, and Fishel (T.K.F.), the name was later shortened to Trifari, reflecting Gustavo’s Italian heritage.

Trifari jewelry is marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF," or "Trifari," depending on the era. A significant milestone came in 1930 with the hiring of Alfred Philippe as head designer. A master craftsman with experience in fine jewelry, Philippe introduced high-quality materials and techniques, training artisans to create sophisticated designs that mimicked fine jewelry. Delicate settings, hand-set crystals, and motifs like floral patterns and marine life characterized these elegant pieces.

Hollywood Glamour and Design Innovations
In the 1930s, Trifari collaborated with Broadway and Hollywood, creating custom designs for actors and elevating the brand's status. Philippe’s innovations included invisible stone settings, sterling silver, vermeil finishes, and faux materials like paste gemstones, imitation moonstone, chalcedony, and pearls. Trifari’s Crown brooches, introduced in the late 1930s, were particularly popular, with designs featuring colorful cabochons or monochromatic rhinestones. These pieces were so successful that a crown was added to the Trifari logo in 1937.

In 1953, the Coronation Gems collection celebrated Queen Elizabeth II’s ascension to the throne.

Adapting to Wartime and Post-War Challenges
During WWII, metal rationing forced Trifari to use sterling silver, tripling prices but maintaining sales. After the war, the company introduced "Trifanium," a rhodium-plated base metal marketed as revolutionary. This campaign successfully reintroduced affordable materials, solidifying Trifari’s reputation.

Mamie Eisenhower’s endorsement further boosted Trifari’s prestige. For her 1953 inaugural ball, Alfred Philippe designed a custom pearl choker, bracelet, and earrings ensemble. Trifari produced three sets: one for the First Lady, one for the Smithsonian, and one for its archives. Mrs. Eisenhower commissioned additional pieces for her 1957 inaugural ball.

Legal Milestones and Corporate Evolution
In 1955, Trifari won a landmark copyright case against Charel, setting a precedent for costume jewelry makers to use the © symbol. In the 1970s, Trifari updated its logo, removing the crown and adopting a new typeface. By the 1990s, the logo transitioned to plain text with a trademark symbol. In 1994, Trifari became part of the Monet Group, later acquired by Liz Claiborne in 2000.

Today, Trifari is celebrated for its timeless craftsmanship and iconic designs, with vintage pieces like this brooch cherished by collectors worldwide.